Through the Words of José Rentes de Carvalho

Enjoy the journey! Get to know and explore the Chapel of Senhor da Pedra, which rises by the ocean.

Among the rocks of Miramar Beach, the Chapel of Senhor da Pedra emerges. This octagonal building that rises by the Atlantic Ocean is a treasure of our territory! A place of worship and faith, festivities, and pilgrimages, its distinct location captivates the gaze of the curious.

‘I wasn’t interested in stories of festivities and pilgrimages, nor in the miraculous cures at the Chapel of Senhor da Pedra.’
       – José Rentes de Carvalho, in Ernestina, 1998

Let your curiosity guide you and embrace wonder and mystery!

Cândido dos Reis Street, formerly known as Direita Street, embodies the true spirit of Gaia and serves as a testament to its rich history and culture. It was the street where José Rentes de Carvalho and his family lived, and it continues to radiate the same vibrancy and tradition.

‘They walked along the bank to enjoy the serenity of the April Sunday and entered the tavern that still exists at the corner of the dock with the square where Direita Street begins.’
       – José Rentes de Carvalho, in Ernestina, 1998

Venture out and discover the secrets at every corner of this street by the river.

This street, located in the parishes of Santa Marinha and São Pedro da Afurada, offers an unforgettable view of Gaia’s traditional architecture and the cellars holding the renowned Port wine. On Rua da Barroca, it was here that Rentes de Carvalho’s uncle fainted… he was close to home!

‘They hurried to grab him so that he wouldn’t fall unconscious and laid him on a bench. Since the bleeding wouldn’t stop, while some ran to call the doctor and the parents, the others wrapped him in a blanket and, picking him up, carried him home, which was just a few steps away on Barroca Street.’
      – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998

Visit and get to know Afurada, a fishing village where time seems to follow a different rhythm and where the salty perfume of the sea blends with ancient stories and the work of fishermen.

This fishing community became known as the center of fishing in Vila Nova de Gaia, with sardines, shad, and lamprey fishing. Today, it is a place that breathes tradition and culture, with streets filled with the smell of grilled fish, the voices of our people, and the vibrant colors of the houses!

‘The flood lasted for a week, and shortly after, he was promoted and began to lead the Afurada post, at this time a village of poor fishermen, crouched behind the dunes that sheltered it from the fury of the ocean.’
      – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998

Explore an exciting journey and uncover the most iconic architectural masterpieces in Gaia!

In Serra do Pilar, you will find the Monastery, one of the landmarks of our territory and an element that has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996. The Monastery of Serra do Pilar stands out for its monumentality and round floor plan!

By the Douro River, you can visit the Corpus Christi Convent, a true example of Baroque architecture, built in the 14th century as a convent of the Dominican Order, described by José Rentes de Carvalho as the Convent of the Nuns.

‘Quinta de Campo Belo’ is situated on Rei Ramiro Street and is a remarkable display of various architectural styles ranging from the fifteenth century to the ‘Rococo.’ The property includes a manor house and vast gardens. The forest surrounding the estate is dense and has been around for centuries. The entrance to the forest is through the grand Baroque garden.

‘On the south bank, ours, the trajectory of the eyes was brief: it started at the round church of Serra do Pilar, descended to the roofs of the wine warehouses, the convent of the nuns, and ended up in the centuries-old trees of Quinta de Campo Belo.’
      – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998

Stroll through the streets of the historic center and let yourself be mesmerized by the mystical atmosphere.

This neighborhood in the Historic Center of Gaia, between Serpa Pinto Street, Carvalhosa Street, and Azenhas, was once the old Jewish quarter of Gaia. The ‘Monte dos Judeus’ was where the house of the writer José Rentes de Carvalho was located, where he was born and lived.

‘It was vast like a world, but in my eyes today, the square where I was born – Monte dos Judeus in the mouth of the people – is a tiny space at the top of a rough and winding medieval staircase.’

        – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998

Enjoy every minute and discover surprising places to savor moments of leisure and socializing!

The Cais de Gaia is a pleasant area along the Douro River filled with restaurants, terraces, bars, and, of course… the cellars that store the Port wine. This is one of the most historic places in Vila Nova de Gaia that has developed over time with the arrival of wine. Formerly known as ‘Cais das Freiras,’ it is now a prime space to enjoy moments of leisure and socializing!

Nearby is the Lavadores Beach, beginning the northern stretch of Vila Nova de Gaia’s vast Atlantic coast. A place that offers remarkable scenery, where the rocks protect our territory from the ocean waves. It is an unmissable place that deserves your visit!

‘Mr. Miguel, who was an electrician and sometimes the banker of a kayak he had at ‘Cais das Freiras,’ said there was no need to go to Lavadores, Canidelo, or any beach: sea baths were taken right there in the river when the tide came in.’
        – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998

Visit Serpa Pinto Street and enjoy the view over the Douro River!

The ‘Calçada das Freiras’ provides access to the incredible Gaia Quay… not familiar with this street in Gaia? This is Serpa Pinto Street, which opens up over the Douro River in an impressive descent.

‘Then we both went down the street, my hand tightly held in hers, and when we turned onto ‘Calçada das Freiras,’ what I saw seemed incredible: the river spread out like a sea, only chimneys sprouted from some houses, the water covered the walls of the convent halfway.’

      – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998.

The 16th-century church dates back to the 14th century and was rebuilt in 1745 with the design of the renowned architect Nicolau Nasoni.

Located in the heart of Gaia’s quay, surrounded by the immense wine cellars of Port wine, the Church of Santa Marinha is worth a visit!

‘The small boat passed the wine warehouses and the Church of Santa Marinha, where the churchyard was covered with water.’
       – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998

Immerse yourself in and be enchanted by the culture and traditions of Gaia!

In January, the celebration of São Gonçalo takes place in Vila Nova de Gaia, accompanied by São Cristóvão and São Roque in a grand parade through our streets. The people of Gaia celebrate, and the drums of various local associations can be heard, including the ‘Mareantes do Rio Douro.’ Visit the festival of São Gonçalo, where the ‘mareantes’ pass by joyfully!

“A month later was the ‘Mareantes’ Festivity, which in my childhood had been eerie and a source of nightmares. […] Then came the ‘Mareantes,’ drumming on dozens of drums of all sizes in a deafening noise, and finally, a sea of people.”

        – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998

Explore the proper collection dedicated to the writer from Gaia!

The first reference to this space dates back to the year 1042. Built in the medieval era, the Solar Condes de Resende is located in Canelas. Once a residential house, it offers a variety of spaces to explore, from romantic gardens to rooms filled with art and history. In this space, you can also see José Rentes de Carvalho’s first computer and some of his typewriters!

The bust of José Rentes de Carvalho is located at the entrance of the Solar, and on it is quoted:
“God created the world in Vila Nova de Gaia, on a hot May afternoon in 1930.”       

      – José Rentes de Carvalho, in ‘Ernestina,’ 1998